The blockbuster beverage you won’t admit you love. : In 2004, it only took one hit movie — Sideways — to kick off a Pinot Noir craze that continues to this day, and to arm consumers who wanted to act like wine connoisseurs with one key, market-disrupting opinion: They didn’t want to drink “any fucking Merlot.” But what about Chardonnay? Fashionable in the 1980s, Chardonnay has been the butt of jokes for two and a half decades.